When Chabad fails, it's gonna be a canned tuna dinner

One miscommunication, and it's off to the supermarket for some surprisingly good canned tuna and a lemon that I'm pretty sure was an etrog.

In the morning, on our way to the Italian Synagogue of Rome, we realized we did not have the full address, so we swooped as low as following a man wearing a strange belt of keys down the wrong street. Alas, we found the shul, located right where the two policemen were chatting, and walked into what was going to be a VERY long, everything-read-out-loud Italian shabbat service. All the men kissed each other twice, and all the women sat a storey higher and every so often yelled out a shrill arabian call that didn't make any sense. At kiddish they had mini croissants with smoked salmon and sauted chickoree. For anyone that can understand the reference: Mossimo from The Bold and the Beautiful was sitting right in front of me in shul. No joke.

After a long walk through the token large park that sits in the middle of every metropolitan city ... and three visible stars later, we decided to divide motsei shabbat into one treat for each of us. Lili chose Lonely Planet's pick of "probably the best gelato in the world" which just so happened to be the only gelateria in Italy that has a hechsher. Natan's pick was a visit to what Lonely Planet described as the "hipster-filled area of Rome": San Lorenzo. After a FRIGHTENING walk through a very dodgy neighbourhood, we arrived and were delighted to find a night festival taking place with trinket stalls, beer and live music featuring a women with a gold dress that played a drum. Lots of hipsters. Natan and Lili very satisfied.

Bed.

Natan.

The Pope, pizza, and the Palatine

Jet lag. After waking up at 6 am and enjoying our free breakfast of whole wheat croissants and cappucinos (err, no soy in Roma, espresso for Lili), we ran most literally to our 8 am reservation at Vatican City. Best decision ever. Apparently an 8 am reservation at the Vatican means that you are completely alone while viewing, you know, Rafael's stanzes, Sistine Chapel, things like that. Highlights: optical illusion ceilings, the 7 days of creation, and lots of Japanese tourists being yelled at by guards for taking photos nonstop.

On to the Jewish Quarter. One entire street lined with kosher restaurants and shops, particularly of interest the market with kosher Parmesan cheese AND ravioli (but sadly, no purchases). Lili had our first Italian pizza (cheeseless, with mushrooms, as the Romans do) and Natan a schnitzel sandwich (classy).

After a slight ticket debacle, we arrived in Ancient Rome in the heat of the day to see: the Roman Forum, the Palatine, and... the Colosseum! But the walking was getting to us. Especially Natan, since he had been wearing the same clothes for 3 days at this point. Back to the hotel room -- Natan's bag arrived! -- just in time for Shabbos.

Lili

A typical first day in ROMA

We stepped off our British Airways flight after a terrible yet bandaid-like fast stint in London Heathrow, and into ROME. One bag here, one bag not. A lot of sneezing, sinus headaches, and disgusting plane clothing. Natan walked way past our hotel, waiting for a stupid veer in a very long, hot road. Scooter ladies gave us directions. Lili's prediction that we had passed the street we needed to turn on - correct. We found our beautiful abode for the next 3 nights. Decorated with fruited grape vines and a very polite tabby - Cristina's Residence.

We started our Rome trip just like any other. The Trevi Fountain, the Spanish steps ... a few photos of just Lili and a sculpture, then some of Natan and a sculpture, and then awkward photos of the two of us and an outstretched arm. We discovered: delicately fizzy water, scary men that want you to hold roses, and tiny supermarkets that are very hard to find and don't actually sell anything.

Dinner? Bread and nutella.

Then? Good night.

Natan.

Bon voyage! To us!

Lili: We are about to embark on our 4-continent, 6-country journey across the world! Follow us! Live vicariously through us!

Natan: Our camera is charged, our backpacks are (already) too heavy and our oriental asian meals on Etihad Airlines are booked (we declined the kosher meal for fear of being beaten up). We're ready.