The Cleanest Place in the World

Japan is everything we thought it would be, plus way too much more. It is filled with huge office buildings, bright lights, kimonos, lots of people, toilets with lots of buttons, many subway systems, good fashion, strange fashion, school children in uniform, soy-based food products, small keychains, zero rubbish bins, and extreme cleanliness absolutely everywhere. Japan is a country with a huge amount of history, with shrines and temples (and Starbucks) on every block, along with huge TV screens and Times Square-looking intersections every couple of subway stops. It is an insanely efficient country. People here could not be more helpful to answer our questions, even if they speak no English.

Here is our Top 10 list of our trip to JAPAN:

1. Tonbo, our WWOOF farm host – Two weeks in Japan is not a huge amount of time to see everything, but we decided before even planning which countries to visit, that we were going to spend a week farming in Japan to experience first hand, living inside a Japanese home, with a Japanese host, through an organization called World Wide Organisation of Organic Farming. Tonbo’s farm was relatively small, but we ate really well, and ate mostly (besides rice) from his own produce. It was an amazing week of broken English, cultural immersion, tatami mats and many swift changes of shoe attire. We also worked our buts off: feeding chickens, weeding, harvesting peanuts, cooking, sawing wood, pulling eyes out of potatoes and learning how to make grasshoppers out of bamboo, which we may or may not be able to show you depending on how kind the quarantine people are tomorrow. Our host, Tonbo, was unbelievably kind and made sure that we ate vegan and made a huge effort to communicate with us. We recommend his farm to anyone!

2. Onsen – We had no idea we would love this so much, but when Tonbo took us to our first hot spring near his farm, we got hooked. Our first onsen featured outdoor pools and a fancy restaurant where you ordered your food from a vending machine. Our second onsen was a “golden” hot spring in the countries oldest spring in Kobe. The water is literally gold as it is packed with nutrients from the earth.

3. 4km of Torii Gates – a long path connecting a small shrine to a larger one hundreds of red Torii gates away.

4.

Bamboo forest - And our day of biking around Kyoto’s Arashiyama area... this was in fact a big accomplishment since Lili is (self-admittedly) not the world’s best biker AT ALL

5. 100 Yen stores – Aisles and aisles of wonderful, almost completely useless, crap (This one is PURELY Natan’s – and he would like to add walking around Harajuku & Takashita Dori)

6. BOLA BOLA Guesthouse – After several painful nights of horrible accommodation, the BOLA BOLA house in Kyoto pleasantly (actually shockingly) surprised us with an amazing room, very helpful staff, and everything we needed.

7. Big Buddha in Nara – Biggest Buddha we’ve ever seen, gorgeous park, lots of holy (apparently) deer.

8. More than one person asking Natan if he had a head injury because of his white kippah – Ha ha.

9. Tokyo Metro System - SO CLEAN, so efficient, so easy to use.

10. Sawara and other accidental parades – Geishas, strange split-hooved shoes (and other ancient Japanese costumes) on parade!

THAT’S IT!

Our backpack honeymoon is over, and after two months of travel around the world, we are now about to begin the next chapter of our lives in Sydney. We are nervous and excited, and cannot wait to take our clothes out of these damn backpacks and eat some vegemite/avocado on toast.

Thanks for reading, or just looking at the blog titles and any interesting photos.

Natan and Lili.

Burk-me, burk-u, burk-a!

So, we discovered that we could not actually obtain an Egyptian visa from the Taba border crossing, as we had previously researched. We planned to grab the visa, go to St Catherine’s Monastery in Southern Sinai, and climb Mt Sinai before dawn to watch the sunrise (with apparently thousands of other daily hikers) from the mountains summit. We thought it would be a great way to start our way, the following day, to Mitzrayim (Egypt) … and basically Natan was itching to see the toilet on the mountain’s summit which has been dubbed The World’s #1 Most Disgusting Toilet, and (ironically), The World’s #1 Toilet with a View.

Bottom line… it didn’t happen and it was really sad. BUT, we spent an impromptu night in Eilat and the following morning in its Egyptian Embassy.

Since we lost a day waiting for our visa, and since it can take up to 9 hours to get there from the Taba Border in Eilat, we decided to make our way straight to Cairo. Taba Border is not nearly as scary as everyone says, in fact it was like any other customs line. However, we recommend to anybody crossing this route, not to use the only ATM in the Egyptian Customs hall.

We found the bus station and three other young travelers who were also going to Cairo, so we managed to get cheap seats in a mini-bus together, “direct” to Cairo. We assumed this meant direct, but we were quickly reminded that people living in developing countries are very lax with time, and after waiting about an hour for a 6^th person to join our mini-bus (who obviously never came), we got driven to some incredibly stark and small town in the middle of Sinai, where we waited for a new driver and mini-bus to take us to Suez, where again we changed driver and vehicle for the third time for Cairo. At one point in this very long day of driving, there were four Egyptian men in our mini-bus, dressed in the appropriate garb, sipping identical juice boxes and eating chocolate bars. All the waste of which, was disposed of, by simply pushing them out the windows of our absurdly fast driven mini-bus, which swerved at every moment to dodge the sand dunes on the road.

After all that, we were exhausted, and couldn’t actually believe we had made it to Cairo. We did know we were there however, because our driver dropped us off beneath a highway, in the middle of a crazy chaotic market with donkeys and people absolutely everywhere. He kept gesturing the way to the metro, but we couldn’t see it, so we panicked and asked that he walk us there. We stupidly had no Egyptian pounds left, (only shekels, which I was hiding with my kippah and tefillin) and out of nowhere, a kind Egyptian man saw these 5 white kids (who looked like death), bought metro tickets for us and took us to our train. I think I’d probably still be standing beneath that highway right now, crying, if not for that man.

We eventually got to the King Tut Hostel, in downtown Cairo, and the rest is history. We got a great deal on a tour guide and driver (both named Ahmed), to take us the next day to the Islamic centre of Cairo, some beautiful Mosques, the Pyramids, a Perfumery (where we got tourist trapped and scored an expensive bottle of imitation Channel 5), and a Papyrus store (where we knew better and walked out empty-handed).

Egypt is chaotic, with donkeys, crazy drivers (who will literally drive between lanes, for kilometers, whilst speeding), hookah bars, disgusting piles of garbage, a beautiful Nile and burkas a-plenty. It houses one of the Great Wonders of the World (which were excellent!!! and actually quite spiritual for us), but the entrance to which, is ironically a miserable pathway made of wooden planks and old doors thrown into a pile.

In the next installment, we travel to Abu Dhabi, and go aboard The United Arab Emirates’ national airline, Etihad … and go to JAPAN!

Natan.

P.S. Give Natan a break—this was his first trip to a developing country… in Africa… Lili

Festival of Booths

ISRAEL has been fantastic. Let's do the shortened version...

We arrived just before Yom Kippur and went to stay with the Kuchars in Efrat. After not eating indulgently for quite a while at this point we decided to treat ourselves to a pre-yom kippur BRUNCH at Aroma Cafe on Emek Refaim, where (in the SOHO location), Lili and I have swooned over many a coffee and mushroom omelette. So, Natan got a coffee and a mushroom omelette AND two types of cheeses, salad toast and an array of olives and pickled things. Lili got her first SOY latte since NYC, plus french toast, and its array of olives and pickled things. We were satiated, and it felt like we were finally in Israel.

We kind of went crazy, and with the help of Lili's parents' visit, we managed to eat at a lot of places:

Aroma (yu-um. it's always nice when you get a free chocolate with your cappucino)

Caffit (Brick Fire Pizza!)

La Boca (VERY yum and a bit fancy. The free dip things they put on the table are the best part)

Babba (Um, excuse me, you served me a hummus, with a lot of yum around it)

Burgers Bar (Theres no point getting the double breast chicken burger, because the single breast chicken burger is, alas, double than what you'd expect.

Luigis (Didn't go because they only have SOUP IN A BREAD BOWL in winter and that's sad)

We didn't go running around Israel this trip, but mainly just walked around Jerusalem, wishing we had more room in our luggage for all the judaica we wanted to buy. We did however visit my relatives in the North, who live on a moshav called Talmei Elazar. They look after a turkey farm, which is frightening and hysterical. And, we had a grand tour of Cesaria, swam in the shockingly warm Mediterranean beaches, went to a cotton farm, visited the Baron Rothschild Gardens in Zichron Yaakov and ate lots of passion fruit and guavas from our cousins' back garden. We also did a quick stint in Akko and Tsfat and hiked a few hours in the Galilee in Nahal Gziv.

Lili's parent's came to visit for their first time, and we visited the new Yad Vashem, got a tour of the four quarters of the Old City (by Vivienne) shopped and ate deliciously from Machane Yehuda. We also frightened Lili's parents with a quick walk through Mea Sharim on Hoshana Rabba.

The best part of Israel is how you bump into people you know everywhere. Here's who we saw (in no particular order):

Tili Fisher (cousin and only blonde Israeli I know)

Simmy Suttner (Sister-in-law-in-law)

Kenny Hendon (Bekeley)

Daniel Feld (Berkeley)

Leah Schwartz (Sydney)

Amanda Wright (childhood babysitter)

Leyat Mill (Mazal Tov!) ... and then a bunch of other Aussies that came to her engagement party at the Luries house in Katamon

Benji & Ranana Levy (Thanks for helping us out!)

Ben Wittenberg

The Seidmans

(Possibly) Joel Weisbord ... it may not have been him.

Our last day in Israel wasn't incredibly smooth, as we had planned to be in Sinai to CLIMB MT SINAI ... but we screwed up on our Egyptian visa. So we stayed at the Red Sea Hotel and ate a possibly unkosher breakfast served by a man named Moishy.

THANK YOU to all the Kuchars who gave us cell phones, booked our buses, translated for us got us from A to B, fed us, and housed us!

Natan. (photos are a coming)

Efkhariso!

We landed in Athens on late Sunday afternoon, with just enough time to check into our Australian hostel and make it to the Acropolis. While looking at some piles of stones from 2 B.C. (whaaat?), we realized that we really should have titled this blog "Looking at Really Old Stuff." Anyway, the view of Athens from the Acropolis is fantastic, and it is unbelievable how far the tiny white buildings stretch as far as the eye can see...

We left for an early morning ferry ride to Paros, the closest Greek island that we could feasibly reach on our short trip to Greece. Four hours and a short bus trip later, we arrived at the Surfing Beach Village and got the keys to our beach hut (6 euros a night, people!). We spent some time laying on the beach and swimming in the insanely clear water, and took a night trip to the harbor town of Naoussa.

The next day, we rented an ATV (cooooool, especially for us) and drove around the small (paved) roads of the island. We even made it to the supermarket where they carried some kosher cheese (yes) and lots of vegetables. Gorgeous views, gorgeous landscape, gorgeous overall.

Back to Athens the following day, on another, though bumpier, ferry ride. We returned to Athens in time to walk around Plaka a bit more, view some graffiti, and make our 2:15 AM flight to Israel!

You'll hear from us when we're not eating our faces off,

Lili.

Florentine New Year

We just left our week in Florence. It was a strange mix of Rosh Hashana stress, beautiful streets and 3 long days of window shopping. We saw David, and we saw Venus and we saw the entire city of Florence from atop the very intricate Duomo. All of which were amazing and shocking and, with the help of Rick Steves, very informative.

Many told us about the Synagogue in Florence, and it is, the most beautiful shul either of us have ever set foot in. It's also clear that the community spends more than a fortune to regularly keep it pristine clean for its visitors. We had many delicious and very international meals at Ruth's Restaurant, where we met: Brazilian Jews from New York who live in Milan, an older couple who live in Vienna and Israel, and a restaurant owner who is really a puppeteer from the Czech Republic. This man, Simcha, is really exceptional, and if you happen to be in the region, please visit, eat some and chat to this guy. Many stories, many languages and lots of smack about the community. The Jewish community in Florence seems like it's on its way out, with barely enough people to make a minyan. Not to mention that Rosh Hashana services take FOREVER when you're you're in a sefardic shul that not only reads every word aloud, but also sings a special Florentine nusach that is very long-winded.

Our stay in Florence ended in time to commemorate September 11th, Lili's birthday. Since it was Shabbat, we felt a little restricted by where we could go and what we could eat, to celebrate. But a huge KOSHER meal has our name written all over it when we arrive in ISRAEL on Thursday morning at 4am. We've penciled in a rain check.

Before then, Athens and Paros.

Natan.

Ah, Venezia. City of lights, canals, and expensive straw hats

We arrived to Venezia in the middle of the afternoon after another series of trains from La Spezia. We took our first vaporetto (water bus) down the Grand Canal to our hotel. No cars, only boats. First stop: Jewish museum tour and kosher food in the Jewish Ghetto. Made our first tourist purchase - a Murano glass mezuzah for only 8 euro, thankyouverymuch.

The next day, we started in San Marco piazza. After visiting Doge's Palace, San Marco's Basicilia, and completing a very information Rick Steve's podcast (free), we sat down to eat our tomato foccacia while surrounded by pigeons (Lili's worst nightmare). A few vaporetto rides later, we arrived at the Peggy Guggenheim museum, which is actually her personal collection shown in the home she owned in Venice. Cool.

We started the day at Murano, the island where Venetian glass is made. Natan ate his heart out at Venini, the (apparently) famous and designer Italian glass maker. We also saw some incredibly small glass bottles for 3 euro each (that Natan would like me to mention because he didn't purchase them and now regrets it every time he walks past a glass store in Venice). Pizza! for lunch in the Jewish Ghetto.

We went to shul at the synagogue in the Ghetto - lots of black iron chandeliers, really tall candles, and beautiful but very uncomfortable wooden benches. We had the nicest Chabad dinner (and lunch) at the Gam-Gam restaurant, with some really nice people. We also met a couple from Monsey who were cousins of Yael Berkowitz and had just come from her wedding in Israel.

On Saturday night, we were just walking around, eating gelato.......and bumped into our NEIGHBORS, Annu and Preeti, from our apartment in Berkeley. Whaaaaaaat?! Literally, our NEXT DOOR neighbors.

Venice, overall, is beautiful. We walked and walked without getting tired of seeing gondolas, laundry hung over canals and alleys, and the colorful, crumbling buildings.

This morning, we visited a few palaces -- housing key works from past Biennales, a prince's ridiculously huge collection of samurai swords and Japanese artifacts, and 16th century costumes.

We leave today for our final stop in Italy -- Florence.

Lili.

P.S. Natan is very upset he has not seen any venetian blinds the whole trip.

The five towns that aren't in Long Island

We arrived in Riomaggiore, which is the first of the Cinque Terre (5 towns) on the northwestern coast of Italy. The train station at Riomaggiore is ridiculous. One side is the vast and VERY blue ocean, and the other is a scattering of colourful houses lodged into the valley of a huge green mountain covered with fields of grape vines. It was really beautiful and quite shocking at the same time.

There are a couple of cafes, some fruit stands a couple delis and a bunch of focaccia stores (the specialty of the region) and beautiful views of the water. That's pretty much it.

First night we got there, we were exhausted from a day of riding the train (which is when we saw amazing melon fields and acres of dead sunflowers still standing up). Our apartment had a nice little balcony that looked out onto the town's main square. As our eyes were shutting at 10 pm (lame, we know), a hilariously terrible Italian cover band started booming a two-hour set of American favourites to a remarkably large audience right outside our window. After a short period of our windows banging together from the bass, we finally gave in, went downstairs and watched young and old Italian groupies dancing, and clapping ... to quality American hits like "The Final Countdown," "Conga Beat," and others. By the way... many silly bands were present.

Next day, we hiked a trail through all five towns which took pretty much the whole day. Lili drank espresso (still no soy), Natan drank cappucino, and we ate tomatos, gelato and tofurky jerky. This walk was incredibly hard, and incredibly beautiful. Lots of steps, lots of Australians, lots of tiny narrow paths sandwiched between olive trees and grape vines.

We also took a day in Pisa. There we took the typical photos of the leaning tower, and got Natan a much needed haircut.

The end. On to Venice! Stay tuned!

When Chabad fails, it's gonna be a canned tuna dinner

One miscommunication, and it's off to the supermarket for some surprisingly good canned tuna and a lemon that I'm pretty sure was an etrog.

In the morning, on our way to the Italian Synagogue of Rome, we realized we did not have the full address, so we swooped as low as following a man wearing a strange belt of keys down the wrong street. Alas, we found the shul, located right where the two policemen were chatting, and walked into what was going to be a VERY long, everything-read-out-loud Italian shabbat service. All the men kissed each other twice, and all the women sat a storey higher and every so often yelled out a shrill arabian call that didn't make any sense. At kiddish they had mini croissants with smoked salmon and sauted chickoree. For anyone that can understand the reference: Mossimo from The Bold and the Beautiful was sitting right in front of me in shul. No joke.

After a long walk through the token large park that sits in the middle of every metropolitan city ... and three visible stars later, we decided to divide motsei shabbat into one treat for each of us. Lili chose Lonely Planet's pick of "probably the best gelato in the world" which just so happened to be the only gelateria in Italy that has a hechsher. Natan's pick was a visit to what Lonely Planet described as the "hipster-filled area of Rome": San Lorenzo. After a FRIGHTENING walk through a very dodgy neighbourhood, we arrived and were delighted to find a night festival taking place with trinket stalls, beer and live music featuring a women with a gold dress that played a drum. Lots of hipsters. Natan and Lili very satisfied.

Bed.

Natan.

The Pope, pizza, and the Palatine

Jet lag. After waking up at 6 am and enjoying our free breakfast of whole wheat croissants and cappucinos (err, no soy in Roma, espresso for Lili), we ran most literally to our 8 am reservation at Vatican City. Best decision ever. Apparently an 8 am reservation at the Vatican means that you are completely alone while viewing, you know, Rafael's stanzes, Sistine Chapel, things like that. Highlights: optical illusion ceilings, the 7 days of creation, and lots of Japanese tourists being yelled at by guards for taking photos nonstop.

On to the Jewish Quarter. One entire street lined with kosher restaurants and shops, particularly of interest the market with kosher Parmesan cheese AND ravioli (but sadly, no purchases). Lili had our first Italian pizza (cheeseless, with mushrooms, as the Romans do) and Natan a schnitzel sandwich (classy).

After a slight ticket debacle, we arrived in Ancient Rome in the heat of the day to see: the Roman Forum, the Palatine, and... the Colosseum! But the walking was getting to us. Especially Natan, since he had been wearing the same clothes for 3 days at this point. Back to the hotel room -- Natan's bag arrived! -- just in time for Shabbos.

Lili

A typical first day in ROMA

We stepped off our British Airways flight after a terrible yet bandaid-like fast stint in London Heathrow, and into ROME. One bag here, one bag not. A lot of sneezing, sinus headaches, and disgusting plane clothing. Natan walked way past our hotel, waiting for a stupid veer in a very long, hot road. Scooter ladies gave us directions. Lili's prediction that we had passed the street we needed to turn on - correct. We found our beautiful abode for the next 3 nights. Decorated with fruited grape vines and a very polite tabby - Cristina's Residence.

We started our Rome trip just like any other. The Trevi Fountain, the Spanish steps ... a few photos of just Lili and a sculpture, then some of Natan and a sculpture, and then awkward photos of the two of us and an outstretched arm. We discovered: delicately fizzy water, scary men that want you to hold roses, and tiny supermarkets that are very hard to find and don't actually sell anything.

Dinner? Bread and nutella.

Then? Good night.

Natan.

Bon voyage! To us!

Lili: We are about to embark on our 4-continent, 6-country journey across the world! Follow us! Live vicariously through us!

Natan: Our camera is charged, our backpacks are (already) too heavy and our oriental asian meals on Etihad Airlines are booked (we declined the kosher meal for fear of being beaten up). We're ready.